Bman505
01-23-2009, 08:43 AM
Lubrication: What do you use, how do you use it, and why?
Over time lubrication has become more sophisticated. Previously, it seems, it came down to "oil or grease" and maybe graphite. Now, we have Teflon, Molybdenum disulphide (Moly), and graphite. This stuff is suspended in all manner and type of oils, greases, and who knows what else. The delivery options seem more varied now too with most things being available in cans, syringes spray containers, etc.
My own lubrication schemes are somewhat set now:
1-When temperatures are moderate (shirtsleeve) and dust isn't an issue I like the oil and grease approach.
2-When it gets downright cold or really hot I like to have moly conditioning (the moly has been deposited on and worked onto the metal surfaces) on the metal sliding surfaces. A moly treated surface isn't temperature dependant like oil or grease is. A very light coat of some kind of preservative oil (I like Breakfree LP for this) is necessary to keep rust at bay, especially if the humidity is high. Moly has no significant rust prevention properties.
I know graphite will work but have never used it so far in firearms. Graphite doesn't mix well with oil or grease.
From my perspective, once I've worked the moly into a surface - i.e. coated it with moly containing oil or grease and worked the handgun to get the moly plated onto the surface - and removed the carrier oil or grease, leaving the moly behind plated onto the metal surface, I can later add oil or grease onto the surface without regard to any moly that's already there. It doesn't evaporate or get "worked out of" or "off of" whatever it's put onto which makes it a good "insurance policy" against temperature extremes. So the firearm has "all season" lubrication.
The only issue I have with moly is that it sometimes "works too well" at reducing friction for my tastes. I therefore hesitate to put in on a trigger as it may well make the thing too light and is very hard to remove from a surface it's been worked into. As well, when putting it on slide rails I've often found myself installing a higher weight recoil spring, etc., to offset potential slide battering.
I don't sell any type of lubrication and have no commercial interest in any company that does.
Got this from USCCA.
Over time lubrication has become more sophisticated. Previously, it seems, it came down to "oil or grease" and maybe graphite. Now, we have Teflon, Molybdenum disulphide (Moly), and graphite. This stuff is suspended in all manner and type of oils, greases, and who knows what else. The delivery options seem more varied now too with most things being available in cans, syringes spray containers, etc.
My own lubrication schemes are somewhat set now:
1-When temperatures are moderate (shirtsleeve) and dust isn't an issue I like the oil and grease approach.
2-When it gets downright cold or really hot I like to have moly conditioning (the moly has been deposited on and worked onto the metal surfaces) on the metal sliding surfaces. A moly treated surface isn't temperature dependant like oil or grease is. A very light coat of some kind of preservative oil (I like Breakfree LP for this) is necessary to keep rust at bay, especially if the humidity is high. Moly has no significant rust prevention properties.
I know graphite will work but have never used it so far in firearms. Graphite doesn't mix well with oil or grease.
From my perspective, once I've worked the moly into a surface - i.e. coated it with moly containing oil or grease and worked the handgun to get the moly plated onto the surface - and removed the carrier oil or grease, leaving the moly behind plated onto the metal surface, I can later add oil or grease onto the surface without regard to any moly that's already there. It doesn't evaporate or get "worked out of" or "off of" whatever it's put onto which makes it a good "insurance policy" against temperature extremes. So the firearm has "all season" lubrication.
The only issue I have with moly is that it sometimes "works too well" at reducing friction for my tastes. I therefore hesitate to put in on a trigger as it may well make the thing too light and is very hard to remove from a surface it's been worked into. As well, when putting it on slide rails I've often found myself installing a higher weight recoil spring, etc., to offset potential slide battering.
I don't sell any type of lubrication and have no commercial interest in any company that does.
Got this from USCCA.